Mans Shirt Draft
Patterns And Samples.
(053). I have been making top quality mens shirt patterns and samples as well as made to measure bespoke shirts for individual clients for forty years.
My basic mans shirt draft does not include seams. I try to make the draft itself as simple and self expanatory as possible. It is based on my basic mans body block.
History Of Shirts.
Shirts have been around since before the middle ages, having originated as under garments and night gowns. In the earlier days these shirts were generally very simple, home made garments that were just pulled over the head, without buttoned openings.
The better off however, would have their shirts tailor made. Like all menswear, the design of the shirt changed only very slowly over the years.
The modern day shirt began really with the button front shirt, first registered by Brown,Davies & Co. in 1871. In the 1930`s the fixed collar shirt gained in popularity and has remained popular ever since.
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Formal Shirt Pattern.
While a plain casual shirt is relatively straight forward, a formal shirt is far more complicated and, like most Menswear, it requires a very precise pattern and a good specialist factory to make it. Although these specialist factories are not abundant in the U.K.
They can be found, but special care must be taken to ensure the production is of a high quality. It is easier to find overseas production for formal shirts, but they would normally require higher quantities and extra special care would need to be taken to make sure of the quality of production.
I have worked for a number of medium sized formal shirt manufacturers who use offshore factories. For them it makes total sense, because it is far cheaper than using U.K. production.
If they find a good factory, then this is a great alternative. But DONT use them to make patterns. They do not usually understand patterns or aesthetics. And they do not usually use professional pattern cutters and graders. I would also suggest having your own sample made before approaching a factory.
Factory Made Patterns.
Many shirt companies will get the factory to provide the patterns and grading from a measurement spec. I do not have a problem with the factory providing the grading as long as you give them a carefully thought out size spec to follow.
If you give them a set of measurements to follow for the initial pattern however, the garments may well turn out exactly to spec, but the shaping may all be in the wrong place.
For example,If you ask them to make three different fits – slim, tailored and regular – and you supply three different armhole measurements, they will often just add the extra allowance at the shoulder rather than the armhole depth or width.
This means that the shoulder area is very baggy and mis-shapen, while the armhole is too high. All the measurements are to spec. But the shape is in the wrong place.
It is very important that anyone who wants a professional looking shirt has the patterns made by proper pattern cutters who understand shirts and understand fit and style. I would suggest employing an experienced shirt pattern cutter to make the base pattern, along with a toile or sample.
Once you are happy with the shape, then get the factory to make their own sample. When you are happy with that, then supply them with a good size spec. using their sample as the starting point. It has to be their sample because the way they make it may affect the measurements.
When you buy a shirt from a big brand usually you are aware of the type of fit and styling that you are getting. A Charles Tyrwhitt shirt will give you one type of style with several types of it fit.
An M&S shirt will be another type of style and a Zara shirt another. All these shirts will always look good in their own way, because a lot of work and hours have been put in by professional people to ensure that it is right.
When you buy a designer shirt this is not always the case, because many designers do not employ good specialist pattern cutters. Instead they rely on their reputation and the design. A well known designer can get away with this, but an emerging designer cannot do so easily.
A lot of time goes into making a mans shirt pattern as there are many different pieces that need to be made very precisely in order to achieve a top quality look.
The collar particularly needs to be made with the correct fusing quality and shape, otherwise the collar will not look crisp and will not fold correctly. A good collar is absolutely vital to a mans shirt. If it is not correct
Factory Ready Patterns.
All the shirt patterns I provide are complete patterns ready for the factory with all necessary fusing pieces, instructions, markings and notches. The Classic shirt patterns are made with traditional flat felled seams as well as collar stay pieces for dress shirts. If you require more information along with prices, please feel free to contact me. Basic styles include :
- Dress Shirt – Classic fit – Centre back pleats.
- Dress Shirt – Classic fit – Centre back pleats – French cuffs.
- Dress Shirt – Classic fit – Side back pleats.
- Dress Shirt – Slim fit – No back pleats.
- Dress Shirt – Super slim fit – No back pleats.
- Sports Shirt – Standard fit – Centre back pleats.
- Sports Shirt – Standard fit – Side back pleats.
- Sports Shirt – Slim fit – No back pleats.
- Sports Shirt – Super slim fit – No back pleats.
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