Menswear
Helping UK Fashion Brands Since 1984.
(100). The London Pattern Cutter is one of only a few menswear manufacturers in the UK, specialising in small runs of high end production, along with a sample development service.
We provide a comprehensive sampling development and manufacturing service for both woven and stretch fabrics. And we have no MOQ`s.
We dont do large scale production ourselves. Instead, we work with a number of excellent UK apparel factories who can provide specialist production in bigger quantities.
New designers need to choose their factory very carefully indeed, because the UK clothing industry is a minefield, with just a select few high end manufacturers.
For your menswear production we use very experienced menswear experts to provide your services, with complete support from our mentors.
We have experts in all menswear fields : Tailoring, Swimwear, Sportswear, Underwear, Casualwear, Denim, Leather, Shirts. Etc.
Our services include :- Design. Pattern cutting. Grading. Sampling. Mentoring. Tech pack design.
The GB Brand.
There are many prestigious British menswear brands. Some of them will use domestic UK factories, will others will choose offshore production.
For most small brands the added value of the GB label far offsets any extra expense it may entail.
The GB brand is still highly respected throughout the world – Even if our manufacturing is not what it used to be. The next twenty years will see an even greater expansion of the GB brand.
While menswear tends to be less elaborate and decorative than ladieswear, it does tend to be more precise and functional.
Men shop for and choose clothes in a very different way to women. A man may spend ages trying to find the perfect T shirt, then by half a dozen of them in the same colour.
The Menswear Clothing Factory.
Its important for anyone seeking menswear clothing production to understand that not every clothing factory can make every type of product. Menswear in so many areas requires specialism.
For a start, there are woven garments, stretch garments and leather garments. Most factories will just make one of these types of garment because they have limited expertise and machinery.
Sample Development.
Most UK clothing factories just provide a CMT service. This means that they will Cut the fabric, Make the garments, and Trim the threads.
The London Pattern Cutter provides a full service, using our highly experienced team of menswear experts.
Before production takes place, we need to make a factory sample. This would happen even if you only wanted a CMT service.
Making the sample is important for us and for you, the client. It enables us to price the garment and for the client to see the quality of production.
Shirt Making.
We have a lot of experience in small scale designer shirt making, although we are not a large scale specialist shirt manufacturer.
Pattern Cutting.
We have worked for a broad range of menswear brands, for a wide variety of genres,from underwear to tailoring and streetwear.
Sampling, grading, mentoring for startups and arranging small production runs etc. But nothing beats the process of creating the patterns and seeing the sampling process through.
We can produce a wide variety of garments from tailoring to are very experienced in mens tailoring patterns as well as patterns for Outerwear, shirts, casualwear, sportswear, leather, denim, T shirts, polos, workwear, uniforms, etc.
Menswear patterns do need to be undertaken by an experienced and knowledgeable Menswear Pattern Maker. In fact each branch of Menswear is itself a specialised field requiring special knowledge – whether Tailoring, Leather wear, denim or Sportswear, etc.
A mans tailored jacket or trouser has to be made by an experienced Mans Tailoring Pattern Cutter. Jeans patterns need to be made by someone experienced in denim pattern cutting.
Having said that, freelancers like myself who have decades of experience can build up an expertise in a number of different fields, just because of the nature of freelancing.
Once a certain level of experience has been achieved it becomes easier to pick up new skills in related fields. So, while tailoring and sportswear may be two totally different areas of pattern cutting, the same basic pattern cutting principles apply.
What does have to be learnt is how a certain type of garment is constructed and what specialist machinery is required.
Design Detail.
Menswear is a very specialised area and generally more technical than Ladieswear. The shapes tend to be rather standardised and men can be very particular that the garments conforms to a specific standard.
A collar may need to be a very specific length and a cuff may have to show an exact amount above a jacket. These tiny details are important in menswear, whether for tailoring, sportswear, or casual wear.
There are numerous internet forums where men discuss these details endlessly. Thread after thread discussing one particular style of jacket or coat. Discussions about whether one interpretation has got the exact correct buttons or stitching for instance.
Functional Clothing.
While womenswear is the more glamorous side of British fashion, menswear tends to be more functional and practical. The UK has a great reputation for both high quality functional clothing and high designer fashion.
Body Shape.
It goes without saying that mens bodies are different to womens, and that these differences tend to be exaggerated with the clothing they wear.
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New Menswear Brands.
The U.K. menswear market has increased massively over the past few decades, and should continue to increase in the foreseeable future. This is great news for anyone considering starting a new menswear brand. But it is important to choose a niche area.
Menswear is a very wide and varied part of our clothing industry. Genres include tailoring, sportswear, streetwear, workwear, outerwear, leisurewear, underwear and activewear.
“It is well enough that people of the nation do not understand our banking and monetary system, for if they did, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning” HENRY FORD
“” The bank hath benefit of interest on all moneys which it creates out of nothing”. WILLIAM PATERSON
Niche Areas Of Menswear.
Lately I have become very interested in niche areas of menswear such as Heritage clothing, retro clothing, ergonomic clothing and sportswear.
I have worked for some well known British brands such as lewis Leathers, Hilton Hotel and Ben Sherman. I also made patterns for the new Virgin Atlantic uniforms, working with Vivienne Westwood
Sampling.
Once the pattern is created we then need to make the sample. In the past I would have made the samples myself, but these days I work with a number of very experienced sample machinists and factories who can do this for me.
Grading.
Like all grading, Menswear pattern grading is best left to the experts. It is pretty much the same formula as ladieswear, but without the complication of bust suppresion.
Tailoring.
Mens tailoring in particular seeks to emphasise the ideal mans shape of wide shoulders and narrow hips. Shoulders may be widened, and emphasised with pads. Chests are padded, and waists are cinched, creating the classic male V shape.
We supply a top quality sampling service for mens tailored jackets. And we can supply small scale production runs. It is important to get a good quality sample made before approaching a factory, so that when you do approach the factory you know that everything run smoothly.
We always block cut and then re-cut fused jacket parts. This is important when making a jacket because it ensures that the original shape is maintained. And it means that the part wont shrink.
Previous Menswear Clients.
Over the years I have worked for numerous high profile Fashion Designers, High Street Retailers, Clothing Companies, small startup clothing companies and individual Bespoke Clients.
Previous Menswear Clients have included :-
JAEGER – ALL SAINTS – WENSUM TAILORING – PETER JENSEN – WINTLE – BEN SHERMAN – ALEXANDER MCQUEEN – VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – NEXT – HENNES – BOY – DUFFERS…
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