Mens Boxer Shorts.
We have tremendous experience of custom made mens boxer shorts in the UK, both for individual clients and small designer brands. We can make any type of boxer, with no minimums.
Mens underwear is a very specialised field of clothing that requires experience and knowledge, in both pattern cutting, and garment construction.
It is an interesting area of fashion for budding designers to explore, as there is much scope and limited competition. You just need to find people with the right skills to interpret and create your designs.
Types Of Boxer Shorts.
Mens underwear falls into two basic categories – Woven, and stretch. Loose boxer shorts tend to be in the woven category. Woven fabrics do not have any give, so they are more tailored, and must be cut with sufficient ease to fit comfortably.
Mens boxers shorts regularly come in and go out of fashion, but they are always stylish. They come in a wide variety of styles. Some are mass market, with limited features, while others are high quality, luxury designs with special features.
Types Of Fly Opening.
Most boxer shorts are made with an all round, continuous elasticated waistband, and an open fly design. Some styles will have a single button in the centre of the fly. Some will have a concealed fly with a hidden button. Some will have no fly at all.
Gripper boxer shorts have a fly that fully opens, secured with buttons or poppers at the waist.
The fly opening normally follows the centre front line, but sometimes it may have a wider front opening
As most men dont actually use the fly, it is as much a decorative feature as a practical one.
There are three basic types of waistband on mens boxers :-
Encased Elastic Waistband –The top of the waistband is folded over to provide a casing for the elastic. This can be a little bulkier, and harsher against the skin, than other methods. There is usually two to five rows of top stitching used to secure the elastic.
Inside Sewn Elastic – A brushed soft finish elastic is sewn inside the waistband, to appear as if to be an encased waistband from the outside. This has a softer feel against the skin. Normally there is two rows of top stitching used to secure the elastic.
Sewn On Elastic – Bare elastic sewn on. These will often be branded, and becomes a distinct feature. A non- roll waistband may be a feature.
Most good quality boxers will use a flat felled seam construction, while some will use a french seam. The flat felled seam will show a double row of top stitching, while the french seam may have a single row, or no external stitching.
A french seam is a more labour intensive type of seam construction, more often used by designer brands. It can be narrower than a flat fell seam, but may be slightly bulkier.
Stitch length is a sign of quality in mens underwear. As a rule, the more stitches per inch, or centimetre, the higher the quality. 18 stitches per inch is fairly standard.
Centre Back Seam.
Having a centre back seam provides for a more tailored fit on the whole, but it is associated with a certain discomfort through the infamous wedgie problem. The reason for this is that the leg fork provides a sharp edge to sit on, rather than a flat surface area.
It is not necessary to have side seams on boxer shorts. If you have a three panel back, then you will probably not have them. Side seams may be more cost effective, or may allow for a better fabric grain alignment.
For a little more thigh movement, a short side seam vent can be added at the hem.
Three Panel Back.
The three paneled back style is designed to eliminate the wedgie problem associated with a centre back seam. In this style the centre back seam is replaced by a shaped back panel.
This is less tailored than the centre back seam style, and makes for a slightly billowing shape at the back.
The three panel back can either be constructed with a flat felled seam, with twin needles stitching, or it can have a double layer bagged out panel.
The balloon seat is the type of fit you get when you use a three panel back construction. The back panel is shaped in order to provide more forward bending and general movement.
The inseam measurement is an important part of the boxer short design. It also dictates the function and comfort of the garment. Boxers normally have an inseam of 3″ – 7″. Having too ong an inseam may cause the shorts to ride up at the thighs.
On a boxer with a centre back seam, there will normally be one inseam, centrally placed. There are a variety of other options also available, using godets, panels and gussets. These tend to provide for more comfortable fitting.
Gussets And Panels.
Gussets are more widely used in stretch underwear than in wovens, but there are a variety of ways to use panelling to achieve a good fit. Sometimes an inside leg panel is used to provide comfort and shaping. This panel can be a french seam, or a lap felled seam. Or it can be a double layer bagged out. All of these methods provide a neat finish.
Yoke Front Gripper Shorts.
As with the standard Gripper style, the yoke front gripper style has a fully opening front fly. Some yoke front boxers will have a pleated front and a gathered back. Some have side waist elastication, while others have gathering into the waistband, and adjustment tabs, or tie backs.
We can provide bespoke boxer shorts for our clients,
What sets a luxury boxer short apart is often the type of buttons used, and how it is sewn on. A luxury boxer will probably use pearl buttons with shanks. The shank is the extra thread that is sewn around the main threads to give the button more depth and some rigidity.
Troca buttons are cheaper than pearl buttons, but plastic buttons are cheapest.
The fabric is a very important part of a boxers design. It is probably the most important thing that distinguishes a luxury product from an ordinary one. As it is worn next to the skin the feel is really important.
The most popular fabric for mens boxer shorts is cotton. It is both absorbant and breathable. For quality the most important factor is staple length. Longer staple cotton can be spun finer, and so feel softer, last longer and look better.
There are a number of high quality cottons in two-ply or three-ply,used to make boxer shorts :
- Pima Cotton
- Sea Island Cotton
- Supima Cotton
- Egyptian Cotton
Tech Pack For Boxer Shorts.
If you are looking for large scale production, especially when going offshore, it is essential to provide the factory with a tech pack. We offer a tech pack service to our clients.
Learn How To Make Your Patterns.
We run a one-to-one pattern cutting course for mens underwear, in either Greenwich, or Walthamstow.
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