Best Pattern Cutting Paper And Card In UK

Best Pattern Cutting  Paper For Pattern Making

275. Choosing the right pattern cutting paper is essential for accurate pattern drafting, garment development and professional fashion production. Whether you are a fashion student, home sewer, tailor or professional pattern cutter, using the correct pattern paper can improve accuracy, durability and workflow efficiency.

In this guide, we explain the best types of pattern cutting paper used in the fashion industry, including spot and cross paper, kraft paper, manila card and tracing paper. We also cover the best paper for beginners, professional pattern cutters and garment manufacturers in the UK. Students need to use the best paper during their pattern cutting classes.

What Is Pattern Cutting Paper ?

Pattern paper is used to draft, trace, adapt and store sewing patterns during the garment development process.

Professional pattern cutting services use different types of paper depending on the stage of production, from initial block drafting through to final production patterns. The most common uses include:

  • Drafting basic blocks
  • Tracing and adapting patterns
  • Creating graded size sets
  • Producing final production patterns
  • Tailoring and bespoke garment cutting
  • Fashion design development

The type of paper you choose affects:

  • Accuracy
  • Visibility
  • Durability
  • Storage
  • Pattern longevity

Professional pattern cutting services use

 

Types Of Pattern Cutting Paper

Spot And Cross Paper

Spot and cross paper is one of the most widely used papers in professional pattern cutting and fashion education.

The paper contains a printed grid of dots and crosses, which helps maintain accurate straight lines, balance points and grain lines during drafting.

Best for:

  • Pattern drafting
  • Fashion students
  • Creating basic blocks
  • Pattern alterations

Advantages:

  • Lightweight and easy to manipulate
  • Accurate grid guidance
  • Affordable for regular use
  • Excellent for learning pattern cutting
  • Pinnable for cutting out fabric

Disadvantages:

  • Less durable than card
  • Can tear with repeated use

Professional pattern cutters often use spot and cross paper during the early development stages before transferring patterns onto stronger materials, and handing them over to the tech pack design service.

Professional pattern cutters usually use spot and cross (dot and cross ) pattern paper for their first patterns. The spot and cross markings provide a useful guide for vertical lines, horizontal lines, and 45 degree lines. These are useful for indicating straight and bias fabric grains.

Spot and cross is also used for figuring out fabric costings, and to provide a stable surface underlay to cut out fabrics. Some pattern cutters will have a layer of spot and cross under the fabric, and the traced out patterns on top. 50 gsm

Kraft Pattern Paper.

Kraft paper is thicker and stronger ( Kraft means strong in German) than spot and cross, but it will take up more space in an envelope or folder. It is normally brown as it hasnt undergone the same bleaching process as white paper. Craft paper is a different product however.

Kraft paper comes in different weights and widths. Personally, I use 90 GSM, and 45″ width. Some heavier 140 gsm kraft papers are used as a cheap alternative to card for finished patterns.

Manila Pattern Paper.

Manila paper is a relatively cheap type of paper, less refined than many other types of paper. Similar to Kraft paper, it is buff coloured, with better printing qualities, it is made  from semi-bleached wood fibres.

Manila Pattern Card.

Manila patter card is generally the chosen paper type for the final pattern, and is also used to produce the final graded  set by the professional grading services.

Many pattern cutters make their initial patterns in card. This is mainly true for tailoring pattern cutters, and outerwear pattern cutters. The finished card pattern cant easily be pinned to  fabric for sample cutting, so is chalked around instead.

Normally it is better to make your initial patterns in paper, then transfer to card at the grading stage, as paper is easier to handle, and significantly cheaper to buy.

Patterns made with card takes up far more space than paper patterns, not just because it is thicker, but also because they must be stored on hooks, without folding.

Card comes in different widths, weights, thicknesses, and colours. Different colours of card can be used to denote different sizes, or materials. It is very useful to have lining, or contrast fabrics in a different colour card to the main fabric, but if you dont want to have multiple rolls of bulky card, then you may prefer to just use a contrast pen to differentiate.

110 cms. 270 gsm.

Best For

  • Master blocks
  • Production templates
  • Tailoring patterns
  • Long term storage

Advantages

  • Extremely durable
  • Professional industry standard
  • Long lasting for repeated tracing
  • Easier to trace round for pattern cutting and cloth cutting

Disadvantages

  • More expensive
  • Difficult to fold
  • Requires storage space

Professional pattern cutters frequently transfer approved patterns onto manilla card to preserve accurate base blocks.

Tracing Paper Or Tissue Paper For Patterns

Tracing paper is not normally used by pattern cutters, but can be used by how sewers to copy patterns. Its transparent surface allows pattern details to be copied accurately.

Best for

  • Copying commercial sewing patterns
  • Overlay corrections

Advantages

  • Transparent surface
  • Lightweight
  • Easy to use

Disadvantages

  • Less durable
  • Can wrinkle easily

 

Tissue  Paper Or 

Many shop bought patterns are printed on  very thin tissue paper, which is ideal to reduce  bulk, but a very poor choice for making durable patterns  to be used more than once.

 

Best Pattern Cutting Paper For Beginners

If you are learning fashion pattern cutting, spot and cross paper is usually the best option.

It offers:

  • Clear drafting guidance
  • Affordability
  • Ease of use
  • Good visibility for corrections

Beginners often benefit from lighter papers because they are easier to pin, fold and manipulate during the learning process.

 

Best Pattern Paper For Professional Pattern Cutters

Professional studios usually work with multiple paper types depending on the stage of development.

  • Either spot and cross or Kraft paper for the initial pattern and adaptations
  • Manila pattern card for the final pattern and grades

Some pattern cutters prefer to use manila pattern card throughout.

 

What GSM Is Best For Pattern Cutting ?

GSM (Grams per square metre) affects the weight and durability of the paper.

  • Tracing paper – 40 – 60 GSM
  • Spot and cross – 45 – 7- GSM
  • Kraft paper – 80 – 120 GSM
  • Manila Card – 160 – 270 GSM

Heavier papers are generally more durable but less flexible.

 

What Paper Do Fashion Designers Use ? 

Fashion Designers and garment manufacturers use a combination of papers throughout the design and sampling process. Most professional pattern cutters use:

  • Spot and cross for drafting
  • Manila card for final patterns and blocks

 

Where To Buy Pattern Cutting Paper In The UK

Pattern cutting paper and fashion drafting supplies are available from specialist sewing and fashion suppliers throughout the UK.

Common suppliers include:

  • Morplam
  • MacCulloch & Wallis
  • William Gee
  • Eastman Staples

When purchasing paper consider:

  • Width of rols
  • Durability
  • Transparency
  • Storage requirements
  • Intended professional use

How To Store Patterns

Correct storage helps preserve accuracy, and extends the life of your patterns

Best Storage Methods

  • Hang large patterns vertically
  • Use pattern hooks for studio organisation
  • Store spot and cross patterns in an A4 envelope
  • Avoid direct sunlight and moisture
  • Label all patterns clearly

 

Different Papers

Pattern cutting  paper needs to be thin but strong and robust. Paper patterns need to be compact enough to fold into an A4 envelope for compact storage, and easy portability.

Plain pattern paper, tracing paper, or plotting paper, is normally white, with no markings. It comes in several different widths, and can be purchased either folded flat, or in various length rolls. Widths are generally 36″ (91cms). 60″ (152cms). 45 gsm – 60 gsm

The advantages of paper patterns are that they are easily pinnable, and they are light and compact for storage and carriage.

Paper can also  be used instead of calico to model on a mannequin. Many professional pattern cutters work this way to obtain their initial shape. Its rigidity and unforgiving nature  can be a distinct advantage.

Pattern Cutting Classes. 

If you are interested in learning about pattern cutting, please check  our group based, or one-to-one pattern cutting classes.

 

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