Best Pattern Cutting Paper And Card For Pattern Making

275. Choosing the right pattern cutting paper is essential for accurate pattern drafting, garment development and professional fashion production. Whether you are a fashion student, home sewer, tailor or professional pattern cutter, using the correct pattern paper can improve accuracy, durability and workflow efficiency.

In this guide, we explain the best types of pattern cutting paper used in the fashion industry, including spot and cross paper, kraft paper, manila paper, pattern card, tracing paper and tissue paper. We also explain which papers are best for beginners, professional pattern cutters and garment manufacturers.

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What Is Pattern Cutting Paper?

Pattern cutting paper is used to draft, trace, adapt and store sewing patterns throughout the garment development process.

Professional pattern cutters use different types of paper depending on the stage of production, from initial block drafting through to final production patterns.

Once a pattern has been finalised, the next step is usually creating a professional tech pack that communicates construction details, measurements, materials and manufacturing instructions to garment factories. Our Tech Pack Design Service helps designers prepare production-ready documentation for sampling and manufacture.

Common uses include:

  • Drafting basic blocks
  • Tracing and adapting patterns
  • Creating graded size sets
  • Producing production patterns
  • Tailoring and bespoke garment cutting
  • Fashion design development

The type of paper you choose affects:

  • Accuracy
  • Visibility
  • Durability
  • Storage
  • Pattern longevity
  • Workflow efficiency

Types Of Pattern Cutting Paper

Spot And Cross Paper

Spot and cross paper (also called dot and cross paper) is one of the most widely used papers in professional pattern cutting and fashion education.

The paper contains a printed grid of dots and crosses that help maintain accurate vertical lines, horizontal lines and 45-degree bias lines during drafting.

Professional pattern cutters often use spot and cross paper when creating first patterns and developing blocks before transferring them onto stronger materials.

It is also commonly used beneath fabric when calculating fabric consumption and cutting samples.

Typical Weight: 50 GSM

Best For

  • Pattern drafting
  • Fashion students
  • Basic block creation
  • Pattern alterations
  • Fabric costing

Advantages

  • Lightweight and easy to manipulate
  • Accurate grid guidance
  • Affordable
  • Excellent for learning pattern cutting
  • Easy to pin through when cutting fabric

Disadvantages

  • Less durable than card
  • Can tear after repeated use

Plain Pattern Paper

Plain pattern paper, sometimes called plotting paper, is a versatile option used by many pattern cutters.

It is usually white with no printed markings and is available in a variety of widths and roll lengths.

Common widths include:

  • 36 inches (91 cm)
  • 45 inches (114 cm)
  • 60 inches (152 cm)

Typical Weight: 45–60 GSM

Advantages

  • Lightweight
  • Easy to pin
  • Compact storage
  • Suitable for draping and modelling

Many professional pattern cutters use paper rather than calico when developing initial shapes on a mannequin because paper provides a rigid structure that clearly highlights fitting issues.

Kraft Pattern Paper

Kraft paper is stronger and more durable than spot and cross paper.

The word “kraft” means “strength” in German. The paper is usually brown because it undergoes less bleaching during manufacture.

Kraft paper is available in different weights and widths. A common professional choice is 90 GSM.

Some heavier grades are used as a cost-effective alternative to card for finished patterns.

Best For

  • Pattern development
  • Repeated use
  • Intermediate and advanced pattern cutting
  • Tailoring

Advantages

  • Stronger than standard pattern paper
  • More durable
  • Cost-effective
  • Good for long-term use

Disadvantages

  • Bulkier storage
  • Less compact when folded

Manila Pattern Paper

Manila paper is a durable, economical paper made from semi-bleached wood fibres.

It is buff coloured and offers improved strength and printing quality compared with lighter papers.

Many pattern cutters use manila paper when they require a stronger working pattern without moving directly to card.

Best For

  • Working patterns
  • Pattern adaptations
  • Semi-permanent blocks

Advantages

  • Durable
  • Affordable
  • Easy to mark
  • Good longevity

Manila Pattern Card

Manila pattern card is widely regarded as the industry standard for final patterns, master blocks and graded production patterns.

Professional grading services often transfer approved patterns onto manila card because of its durability and accuracy.

Many tailoring and outerwear pattern cutters work directly in card from the beginning of the process.

Typical Weight: 160–270 GSM

Best For

  • Master blocks
  • Production templates
  • Tailoring patterns
  • Long-term storage
  • Graded size sets

Advantages

  • Extremely durable
  • Long-lasting
  • Professional industry standard
  • Accurate for repeated tracing

Disadvantages

  • More expensive
  • Difficult to fold
  • Requires hanging storage

Most pattern cutters prefer to draft in paper and transfer to card only once the pattern has been approved.

Tissue Paper For Sewing Patterns

Many commercial sewing patterns are printed on very lightweight tissue paper.

Manufacturers use tissue paper because it reduces packaging bulk and lowers shipping costs. While tissue paper works well for occasional home sewing projects, it is generally unsuitable for patterns that will be used repeatedly.

Best For

  • Commercial sewing patterns
  • Home sewing
  • Pattern copying

Advantages

  • Lightweight
  • Compact storage
  • Easy to fold
  • Inexpensive

Disadvantages

  • Tears easily
  • Difficult to repair
  • Poor long-term durability
  • Unsuitable for professional pattern development

Professional pattern cutters rarely use tissue paper for working patterns because it deteriorates quickly with repeated handling.

Tracing Paper

Tracing paper is primarily used to copy existing patterns and transfer details.

Its transparent surface allows pattern lines, notches and markings to be copied accurately.

Best For

  • Copying commercial patterns
  • Overlay corrections
  • Pattern adaptations

Advantages

  • Transparent
  • Lightweight
  • Accurate copying

Disadvantages

  • Wrinkles easily
  • Less durable than drafting paper

Best Pattern Cutting Paper For Beginners

If you are learning pattern cutting, spot and cross paper is usually the best choice.

Its printed grid makes it easier to maintain accuracy while learning pattern drafting techniques.

Benefits include:

  • Clear drafting guidance
  • Affordability
  • Easy corrections
  • Lightweight handling
  • Easy storage

Fashion students commonly use spot and cross paper throughout their training.

Best Pattern Paper For Professional Pattern Cutters

Professional pattern cutting studios often use multiple paper types during the development process.

A typical workflow might include:

  1. Spot and cross paper for initial drafts
  2. Kraft paper for development and amendments
  3. Manila card for final patterns and grading

Some tailoring pattern cutters prefer to work directly in card throughout the entire process.

What GSM Is Best For Pattern Cutting?

GSM (grams per square metre) determines the weight and durability of paper.

Typical weights include:

  • Tracing paper: 40–60 GSM
  • Plain pattern paper: 45–60 GSM
  • Spot and cross paper: 50–70 GSM
  • Kraft paper: 80–120 GSM
  • Manila pattern card: 160–270 GSM

Higher GSM papers are generally stronger but require more storage space.

What Paper Do Fashion Designers Use?

Fashion designers and garment manufacturers often use several different paper types throughout development.

Most professional pattern cutters use:

  • Spot and cross paper for drafting
  • Kraft paper for development
  • Manila card for final blocks and production patterns

The choice depends on the stage of development and the intended lifespan of the pattern.

How To Store Patterns

Correct storage extends the life of patterns and preserves accuracy.

Best Storage Methods

  • Hang large card patterns vertically
  • Use pattern hooks for organisation
  • Store paper patterns in labelled envelopes
  • Protect patterns from moisture
  • Avoid prolonged sunlight exposure
  • Clearly label all pieces and sizes

Paper patterns can usually be folded into A4 envelopes, making them ideal for compact storage and transportation.

Where To Buy Pattern Cutting Paper In The UK

Pattern cutting paper and drafting supplies are available from specialist fashion suppliers.

Popular suppliers include:

  • Morplan
  • MacCulloch & Wallis
  • William Gee
  • Eastman Staples

When purchasing paper, consider:

  • Roll width
  • GSM weight
  • Durability
  • Storage requirements
  • Intended professional use

 

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best paper for pattern making?

Spot and cross paper is generally considered the best paper for drafting and developing patterns. For final production patterns, manila pattern card is often preferred.

What paper do professional pattern cutters use?

Professional pattern cutters commonly use spot and cross paper, kraft paper and manila pattern card depending on the stage of development.

Is tissue paper good for pattern making?

Tissue paper is useful for commercial sewing patterns and occasional use, but it is generally too fragile for professional pattern cutting and repeated use.

What is spot and cross paper?

Spot and cross paper is a lightweight drafting paper printed with dots and crosses that help maintain accurate grain lines, right angles and bias lines.

What GSM paper is best for pattern cutting?

Most pattern cutting papers range between 45 GSM and 120 GSM. Heavier card materials typically range from 160 GSM to 270 GSM.

What is the difference between kraft paper and pattern card?

Kraft paper is flexible and suitable for drafting and alterations, while pattern card is much more durable and is used for master patterns and production templates.

Can I use tracing paper for pattern making?

Yes. Tracing paper is useful for copying and adapting existing patterns, although it is not usually used for long-term pattern storage.

How should sewing patterns be stored?

Paper patterns can be folded and stored in envelopes or folders. Pattern card is usually stored hanging on pattern hooks to prevent distortion.

Pattern Cutting Classes

If you would like to learn professional pattern cutting, we offer one-to-one pattern cutting tuition covering pattern drafting, block development, garment construction and industry techniques.

For further information:

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