How Much Do Clothing Samples Cost In UK ?
How Much Does Sampling Cost In The UK ?
230. Sampling costs are a big part of any fashion brand’s budget, but the big brands can afford to pay for as much design and development as it costs in order to perfect their samples. Small designer brands on a more limited budget do not have that luxury.
Clothing samples can cost up to five times the production price when made by a manufacturer. But to answer the question how much do clothing samples cost, you need to define what is part of the sampling process. Making the sample itself is only part of the sample development process, which includes everything pre production, from the design to the final finished sample.
The amount you pay for your sampling will depend naturally on the type and complexity of the sample itself, what type of sampling service you choose to use, and on how much of the sample development you want the sample makers to do.
Maybe you want the sample makers to just cut and sew the sample, while you provide the design, pattern, fabric, and tech pack. Maybe you want to just provide the designs, while the sample maker does everything else.
How To Get Samples Made.
Who you choose to make your samples depends on your own unique requirements, and your budget. You have five choices. Each one may provide an hourly rate or a job rate. I normally prefer a job rate from both parties perspectives, but sometimes an hourly rate is necessary :
- Seamstress Or Dressmaker
- Freelance Sample Machinist
- Pattern Cutter/Sample Machinist
- Specialist Sampling Unit
- CMT Factory.
Seamstress Or Dressmaker.
using a seamstress or dressmaker to do the sampling is the cheapest alternative, but it’s important to be aware that it is unlikely they would be trained in the fashion industry, so their sampling methods would not transfer to production. If you just need a garment sewn up, then this may be a reasonable option, but for a professional sample you must use a trained sample machinist. A seamstress or dress maker may cost £15 – £20 per hour. If a skilled dressmaker charges less than this, then you need to be paying them MORE.
Freelance Sample Machinist.
London used to have many skilled freelance sample machinists, who would just make your samples from your provided patterns, and sometimes cut the fabric too. But today skilled sample machinists working from home are hard to find.
A freelance sample machinist may charge £18 – £40 per hour. If you just want a sample made from your own pattern, this is a perfectly good option, but if you want a full sampling service you would need to use a professional sampling service.
Freelance sample machinists working from home, or from a small unit, will have limited specialist machinery, so you will need to make sure that they are equipped to make your styles correctly.
Pattern Cutter/Sample Machinist.
You can sometimes find a pattern cutter who also makes samples, or a sample maker who also makes patterns. They may be a little more expensive than dedicated sample machinists, but it does save on the to and fro between both, and means that the machinist can make any pattern adjustments necessary. A pattern cutter/sample machinist may charge £20 – £45 per hour.
Sampling Unit.
A designated sampling unit is a small step up from the pattern cutter/sample machinist. They should be able to provide patterns, samples and grades as a minimum. They may also provide design services, fabric sourcing, and tech packs. Some may also provide small runs.
You will need to check that they are equipped with all the machinery necessary to make your styles, and have all the other skills that are needed to make your type of product. They may be cheaper than a pattern cutter/sample machinist, but is generally more convenient. A sampling unit will usually have a small workforce providing various skills. Their prices may vary depending on the services you require, but they will probably give you a per job price.
CMT Factory.
Some CMT factories will provide a complete service from design to production and beyond, but they dont all employ the best pattern cutters or graders to make to the highest standards. It is worth using the best pattern cutters and graders to ensure best results.
A CMT factory will sometimes make the samples free of charge, but they will add it on to your production price, and you will probably find that the patterns and samples are THEIR property. I would say that it is generally better to get the sampling made elsewhere, and just employ the factory to make the production. If you want offshore rather than domestic production, then you would need expert guidance in advance. The CMT factory will normally have to charge VAT.
Generic Examples.
Lets take a basic hoodie. As a minimum you will need a sample and a pattern. The pattern may cost £100, and the sample my also cost £100. So, it would cost £200 in total.
If a technical drawing, or a tech pack is needed, this could cost £80 – £160., but you would also use this for production. If the factory have sufficient information, and skilled pattern cutters and machinists, then you should only need one sample. If further samples are needed, you would have to pay for them.
A more difficult example could be a technical cycling jacket. This may cost £200 for the initial pattern, £80 for a mock-up, and £150 for a sample. A tech pack would probably be needed, at a minimum price of £160.
Because it is a technical garment, you will probably need three or four samples before approval – Maybe more to perfect the fit.
As a very rough guide, a blouse sample may cost £40 – £150, without a pattern. A tailored jacket sample may cost £120 – £300.Those prices dont account for making the pattern and tech pack, which can be a significant part of sampling costs.
How Much Does Garment Development Cost ?
Because we at The London Pattern Cutter work mainly for small startup fashion businesses, we need to keep sampling and development costs to a bare minimum.
High street fashion companies can afford to spend a lot of money developing even very basic styles. They will generally make three or four samples before approving each design. If we worked the same way, it would cost thousands of pounds for every style.
For most general fashion styles, we try to make just one sample. We achieve this by getting plenty of accurate information from the outset. If we dont have this information, then it will be difficult to produce an accurate sample every time.
If the styles are quite simple, we can gather this information through a basic sketch, or an existing garment. If they are more complicated, then we may need to create a technical sketch, or a tech pack from information provided by the client.
Sometimes a client wants to develop a quite specific idea that needs more work.
While it is more difficult to price for garment development, rather than normal fashion garments, we generally try to charge for these special garments in stages.
So, we may charge to make the initial basic pattern, plus two additional iterations, and mock ups for one price. Hopefully this would be all that was needed before sampling.
We would then charge a price for the second stage. It is rare for a clothing product to go beyond three samples, but we should have an idea from the outset whether this may be the case.
an compile one for you, using our own highly experienced tech pack designers. This way, we get the important information from our clients first hand, rather than second, or third hand through a tech pack.
EMAIL [email protected]
Specialists.
For some types of clothing you will need a specialist sample machinist with specialist sewing machines. Sometimes only a specialist factory will have the facilities.
Contour wear, swimwear, lingerie, and sportswear often need specialists, although sometimes samples can be mocked up well enough to serve their purpose. Expect to pay more for a specialist machinist though.
Hourly Rate Vs Job Rate.
Deciding whether to use an hourly rate, or a rate per job can be tricky. Many freelancers prefer to use an hourly rate, as there can be all sorts of unexpected hold ups and complications.
I normally advise my colleagues to use a per job rate so that clients know exactly how much they will be paying for the job. in advance. It is important to be very clear and transparent regarding pricing
One-Stop-Shop.
The one-stop-shop will probably be the more expensive option for sampling, as you will be paying for the convenience of having all the knowledge, experience and skills in one place. You will also be paying VAT. It can be a great option for startup entrepreneurs with a reasonable budget, but with little free time.
Why Does Sampling Cost So Much ?
Much of the cost of sampling is in the pattern price. It is not just the cost of making the initial pattern, but also the cost of making the toiles (mock ups) where necessary, and of alterations, and producing a final perfected pattern.
Our Services.
The London Pattern Cutter is a small collective of fashion industry specialist freelancers and small factories, devoted to providing reasonably priced expert services to fashion startups, small businesses, and individual clients.
Each of our freelancers should be able to provide you with a range of services and advice within their field of expertise, that goes way beyond sampling.
Our expert sample machinists should be able to help with sourcing, fitting, tech packs, pattern alterations, and general advice. All at a reasonable hourly rate.
We can provide you with a choice of specialist freelance sample machinists, sample factories, and one-stop-shop manufacturers to suit your specific needs.
EMAIL [email protected]