Grading Rules For Womenswear

What Are Grading Rules For Womenswear ? 

241. Grading rules are a set of standardised incremental measurements  used in the fashion industry to adjust a ladies base size pattern   to a range of  larger and smaller sizes. Ladies grading is more complicated than menswear, because of the extra complication of the bust. Different grading rules would apply for different bust types.

Although the grade rules are said to be standardised, there is no set rule for each garment type. The grader establishes the grading rules themselves,  according to each style and based on the specific demographic of the brand. Different demographics require different grade rules.

The graders knowledge and skill are really important for your brands success, as an inaccurate  grade can result in excessive returns, which can be extremely costly.

Grading For Your Brand.

A young  brand will generally increase evenly through bust, waist and hips, and will be graded as if for different people who just happen to be different sizes. An older  brand on the other hand, will be graded as if it were for one person who grows bigger with age. That is because we change shape ( not just size)  as we age. Each size has to be graded in order to fit as many different people as well as possible.

Each size needs to maintain as closely as possible the fit and look of the base size. With adults this is fairly straightforward, although the further the size deviates  from the base size the more the shape changes, as people do not generally change height as much as they do girth.

Sizes generally only increase or decrease according to girth, and not according to height. People tend to believe that height is a factor because there is an allowance for  armhole depth and crotch depth. But this allowance is NOT for height – It is to allow for extra fat in these places.

What Are Cardinal Points ?

Cardinal points in grading are the most significant points on a pattern, such as the back neck point, side neck point, shoulder point, and armhole base, where a pattern is graded through. The grader uses these cardinal points in order to create the grade rules.

Learn How To Grade Ladieswear.

If you would like to learn about grade rules for ladies wear, and how to grade ladies wear, we run lessons either face to face, or online.

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