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MENSWEAR

 Pattern Cutting

I am first and foremost a Menswear Pattern Cutter. I have been cutting  patterns for a very long time and have taught menswear pattern cutting at the world famous Central St. Martins College in London. I love the functionality and logic of menswear.

I enjoy all the other aspects of my job too –  Sampling, grading, mentoring for startups and arranging small production runs etc. But nothing beats the process of creating the patterns and seeing the results.

  I am very experienced in mens tailoring patterns as well as patterns for Outerwear, shirts, casualwear, sportswear, leather, denim, T shirts, polos, workwear,  uniforms, etc.

The Importance Of Detail In Menswear

Menswear is a very specialised area of pattern cutting and generally more technical than Ladieswear. The shapes tend to be rather standardised and men can be very particular that the garments conform to a specific standard – A collar may need to be a very specific length and a cuff may have to show an exact amount above a jacket. These tiny details are important in menswear.

There are numerous internet forums where men discuss these details endlessly. Thread after thread discussing one particular style of jacket or coat. Discussions about whether one interpretation has got the exact correct buttons or stitching for instance.

Pattern Cutting Experience

Menswear patterns do need to be undertaken by an experienced and knowledgeable Menswear Pattern Maker. In fact each branch of Menswear is itself a specialised field requiring special knowledge – whether Tailoring, Leather wear, denim or Sportswear, etc.

A mans tailored jacket or trouser has to be made by an experienced Mans Tailoring Pattern Cutter. Jeans patterns need to be made by someone experienced in denim pattern cutting. Having said that, freelancers like myself who have decades of experience can build up an expertise in a number of different fields, just because of the nature of freelancing.

Once a certain level of experience has been achieved it becomes easier to pick up new skills in related fields. So, while tailoring and sportswear may be two totally different areas of pattern cutting, the same basic pattern cutting principles apply. What does have to be learnt is how a certain type of garment is constructed and what specialist machinery is required.

PHONE :- 07905-965-305 ( BILL )

EMAIL –  thelondonpatterncutter@gmail.com

Menswear Startups

The U.K. menswear market has increased massively over the  past few years, and should continue to increase in the foreseeable future. This is  great news for anyone considering a menswear startup business. But it is important to choose a niche area.

Menswear is a very wide and varied part  of the U.K.  clothing industry. Genres include tailoring, sportswear, streetwear, workwear,  outerwear, leisurewear,  underwear and activewear.


“It is well enough that people of the nation do not understand our banking and monetary system, for if they did, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning”  HENRY FORD


Brand GB

There are many prestigious British menswear clothing brands. The GB brand is still highly respected throughout the world.  Even if our manufacturing is not what it used to be. I believe that the next twenty years will see an even greater expansion of the GB brand.

Having the Union Jack label on a garment adds value, even if it costs more to make in the UK.

While menswear tends to be less elaborate and decorative than ladieswear, it does tend to be more precise and functional.  Men  shop for and choose clothes  in a very different way to women. A man may spend ages trying to find the perfect T shirt, then by half a dozen of them in the same colour.

“” The bank hath benefit of interest on all moneys which  it creates out of nothing”.  WILLIAM PATERSON

Niche Areas Of Menswear

Lately I have become very interested in niche areas of menswear such as Heritage clothing, retro clothing, ergonomic clothing and sportswear. I have worked for some well known British brands such as lewis Leathers, Hilton Hotel and Ben Sherman. I also made patterns for the new Virgin Atlantic uniforms, working with Vivienne Westwood

Sampling

Once the pattern is created we then need to make the sample.  In the past I would have made the samples myself, but these days I work with  a number of very experienced sample machinists and factories who can do this for me.

Grading

Sometimes I will do the grading myself, but often it is more cost-effective to have someone else do it for me under my specific instructions. Most grading is relatively straight forward, but sometimes it gets complicated.

Previous Menswear Clients

Over the years I have worked for numerous high profile Fashion Designers, High Street Retailers,  Clothing Companies, small startup clothing companies and individual Bespoke Clients. 

Previous Menswear Clients have included :-

JAEGER – ALL SAINTS – WENSUM TAILORING – PETER JENSEN – WINTLE – BEN SHERMAN – ALEXANDER MCQUEEN – VIVIENNE WESTWOOD – NEXT – HENNES – BOY – DUFFERS…

PHONE :- 07905-965-305 ( BILL )

EMAIL –  thelondonpatterncutter@gmail.com

Helping fashion startups since 1984