Tailored Jacket Patterns
Mans Tailored Jacket Pattern Cutting.
The London Pattern Cutter provides a high quality pattern cutting and making service for mans jackets.
It takes many years of experience to be able to cut a mans tailored jacket pattern competently. It is not just the cut and balance of the pattern. It is also understanding the construction of a mans tailored jacket.
The Lining Pattern.
It doesnt matter how well the main outer pattern is cut if the lining is not cut correctly. The lining is an extremely important component. It needs to be a little bigger, with extra length in the sleeves and the body. The centre back seam needs a pleat to give some extra forward movement of the arms.
The sleeve lining needs to be cut to allow for the fact that it lays on top of the armhole seam. And some ease would normally be taken out, as lining fabric cannot usually take as much ease.
If there is a back vent, then a little extra length needs to be added so that it does not pull in this area.
I am highly experienced in cutting mens jackets. As I cut each pattern manually in order to obtain the best possible fit, I become very skilled in understanding what is a good shape with correct balance and style.
If a jacket is not cut correctly, even though it may look O.K. it can feel uncomfortable when wearing it. When I try on an off the peg jacket, I often feel as if I need to pull the back up and push the front forward.
This is caused by incorrect balance between front and back. While most top brands should provide a good basic fit for their chosen market, smaller designer brands will often suffer from these fit problems. No matter how nice the design, if the jacket does not feel right it will be a massive disincentive to buy.
Getting the fit and balance right is only half of the job of cutting a tailored mans jacket though. The other half of the job is adding the linings, interfacings, canvas, pockets etc. Many Pattern Cutters will not provide a complete pattern because they will leave out the interfacings and canvas pieces etc.
It is often these apparently small details that make a big overall look of the jacket and although it can be tempting to take a couple of hours off the total work time, this corner cutting will result in a poorer garment…
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