Draping

Our Introduction To Draping Class.

(37) This is a one-to-one short pattern cutting course, devoted to the art and techniques of draping on the stand. The London based classes are suitable for beginners, or someone trained in flat pattern cutting who wants to learn draping.

No previous experience is required, just an interest in pattern cutting, fashion design, dressmaking , or draping. You don’t require any understanding of pattern cutting theory to learn draping. You  create your design on the mannequin in muslin,  then make your final pattern from the muslin.

Our private pattern cutting lessons can be adapted to serve two fashion students, learning together for paired tuition.

What Is Draping On The  Stand ?

Draping on the stand, or modelling, is a method  of creating garment shapes, using fabric draped and pinned directly on to a mannequin. The resulting shapes are then accurately marked, unpinned, flattened out and pinned to paper. The shapes are transferred to the paper, with all  relevant markings, grains,  notches and seam allowances.

Fabric draping  is an intuitive and creative  form of pattern making, very popular with fashion designers, who dont always have the knowledge or temperament for flat pattern cutting.

As it is a more intuitive method of pattern making, it does not require understanding of pattern cutting theory, or pattern manipulation, although it does help you to understand  the theory.

Experienced, creative manual pattern cutters will often combine draping with flat pattern cutting. Even computer pattern cutters will utilise some draping on the stand in order to find a collar shape, or a neckline etc.

Ideally anyone wanting to learn pattern cutting techniques would study both flat pattern cutting, and draping to obtain a full understanding of good pattern making.

Designer Pattern Cutters.

Pattern draping is very popular with professional designer pattern cutters who tend to be more creative but less technical than normal pattern cutters.

They will  make their own patterns using draping, as the technique gives them the freedom to play with the fabric, and adjust the design, without having to understand any pattern cutting theory. sometimes they will create a rough initial pattern, then have another  pattern cutter finalise the pattern.

Draping Techniques.

Modelling on the stand is not a precise technique – Rather it is a free form method in which you can design your garment as you go. Whatever happens on the stand is what you get. You dont have to think it through.

The Mannequin.

You need to have a dress form in order to drape on the stand. Good professional forms are not cheap, but do last a lifetime.

It is useful to mark all the major lines and seams on to the dress form if they are not already marked. Lines to mark include:- Centre front; Centre back; Side seams; Neck line; Bust line; Waist line; Hip line; Shoulder.

Draping The Fabric.

Normally pattern cutters will use a suitable weight calico, or muslin for draping. Calico is a cheap, unbleached woven cotton fabric.

Because calico is light in colour, it is easy to draw on. Different coloured pens can be used for marking the calico.

You may draw a light line in pencil to test a line initially. Then if you are confident in the line you have created, you may draw a more bold line in black. Maybe later you decide to change it, so you use a red marker. Then you change it again and use green.

If you have a tried and tested system, then you know which colour to follow when you come to make the paper pattern from the calico. If you have someone copying the pattern for you, they should understand your colour coding.

Modelling On The Stand With Paper.

Sometimes a pattern cutter may use paper to model on the stand. While obviously paper is far more rigid than calico, it can be a useful way to create an initial shape. You can form a rough, initial shape with the paper, then test it more fully with a fabric. Paper will not drape as fabric does, but it is good for simple shapes.

Your Tutor.

Mae is a very experienced designer pattern cutter specialising in draping on the stand.  She conducts the one-to-one pattern draping classes from her studio in Walthamstow, London.

Draping Workshops.

If you are interested in a one day draping workshop please email for details.

EMAIL     [email protected]