Hoodie Tech Pack
What Is A Hoodie ?
63. A hoodie, or hooded sweatshirt is a style of sweatshirt with a hood. There are zip up hoodies and pullover hoodies, which used to be called jumpers. The hood may have a drawstring, and may come with kangaroo pockets on the front.
Why Do You Need A Tech Pack ?
Your tech pack is a blueprint for your hoodie or hooded sweatshirt design. It ensures that your hoodie is designed and made exactly as you intend it to be, without costly revisions.
As well as being in your own interests to provide a professional tech pack, many factories will require you to provide one before making your garment sample and production run.
For more information on creating tech packs, please check out our general page on tech pack design.
Your Hoodie Design.
If you are looking to create a tech pack for a hoodie, or to have one created for you, first you must begin with your design. Or at least your idea, with the design concept. It’s best to start with a reference garment too.
If you have a collection of different hoodie designs you should number or name each one. If you just have one hoodie design, then naming it “Hoodie” is fine. Or “Hoodie 1” if you have more than one.
You dont need to be a professional designer, and you dont need to be a great sketcher, as long as you provide enough information for the techpacker, or pattern maker to interpret your design accurately.
If you are using a professional tech pack designer to create your techpack, then they can re-draw your designs from your own rough sketches, images, look book and reference garments.
Although your techpacker may be able to advise you on how practical your design is, they cant design it for you. It is your design after all. If you want a fashion design service, we can offer that to you.
If you have reference garments your sketch doesnt have to be an accurate representation of your design, as long as you draw all the features that you are looking for, such as zips, pockets, ribs and hood.
Try to make sure that your reference is at least roughly the shape you want to achieve. Dont use a slim fit if you want a boxy or oversized hoodie.
Tech Pack Template.
If you have multiple hoodie, sweatshirt, or sweater designs, it is worth creating a template that can be used over and over again, with small adjustments for each new style.
You may want a template for each type of fit – A regular fit hoodie and an oversized hoodie for example. Or, if the construction is the same, then you can use just the one template and adjust the measurement spec. You can also use this as a sweatshirt template.
How Much Is A Hoodie Tech Pack ?
There is a lot of work in creating a tech pack, although hoodies are comparatively straight forward, and require a fairly simple tech pack. A hoodie tech pack may cost anything from £150 to £450.
Oversized Hoodie.
At the moment oversized hoodies are very popular. They are an entirely different shape and size to the standard fit. Although the construction will be the same, the oversized hoodie will require more fabric. If you use a basic oversized hoodie template you can create multiple designs using variations of the same tech pack.
Sourcing Fabrics And Trims.
You will need to source all the fabrics, trims, and hardware for your design, unless your factory provide this service for you. A CMT factory will generally not provide any of the components except for the stitching thread.
A good FPP factory will provide everything for you, but you will have to pay extra for this comprehensive service.
We can provide a fabric and trim sourcing service for you.
Sleeves.
There are two main types of sleeves for a hoody. Raglan and set-in. The raglan sleeve allows for more movement, while the set-in sleeve is a little more formal. Cuffs can have a simple coverstitched hem, or can be a separate rib.
Pockets.
The standard pockets used in hoodies and sweatshirts are welt pockets, kangaroo pockets, or side pockets. Pockets are usually topstitched, and may have reinforcing bartacks .
Normally pockets would be lined with a self fabric. If you choose to use a different pocketing fabric, this would have to be sourced, and listed in your bill of materials.
Lining.
If you choose to line your hoodie, you will need to source your lining and add it to your list of components.
Borg lined zip hoodies are very popular today. Borg is an imitation sheepskin that provides extra warmth and comfort. It is also a bulky fabric, so your size spec would have to be adapted to take account of this.
The Components That Make Up Your Garment.
Unless you have chosen a FPP factory, you will have to supply all of the various components that make up your design, except the thread.
Some factories may have a small selection of fabrics, trims and hardware that they can use for your sample or production.
If you dont have a strong preference for all the components that make up your garment, you can let the factory decide. You risk being unhappy with the results.
Sportswear Or Streetwear.
If your hoodie is for a sportswear brand it will be very different to a streetwear hoodie. The sportswear version would need to be more practical and functional, while the streetwear version would be more casual, and more fashion oriented.
Reference Garments.
In order to prevent too much trial and error in sampling, you will need to provide at least one reference garment for fit. You may also want to provide other reference garments for various design elements.
Where your reference garment differs from your own design you will need to make notes along with your sketch. You may want it a little longer or a little wider for instance. You may want a zip front, rather than a pullover hoodie.
You could have one garment for the fit and one for the hood shape. Just make sure that your sketch shows this. If yours is a streetwear brand, then ideally your reference garment should also be a streetwear hoodie.
Your Sketch.
You need to provide a clear illustrated sketch, including all the elements of your design. Dont worry if you cant draw, as even a bad drawing is better than none.
I like to use the analogy of a childs drawing of a house. It may be basic, but you know what each element is, where it is, and roughly its size. You recognise the roof, the chimney, windows and the door.
If you have provided a reference garment, make sure you reference the differences between your design and the garment.
The Fabric.
You now need to choose your fabrics and trims. If you opted for Full Package Production (FPP) then your factory can source the fabric for you. Otherwise you would either have to source the fabrics yourself, or employ a fabric sourcing service.
If the factory provide the fabrics you still need to give some guidance. You may not always get exactly what you are looking for, even if you provide a reference garment or fabric swatch.
Most hoodies are made from cotton, polyester, or a cotton/polyester blend. Streetwear brands would generally use heavy weight fabrics.
The Construction.
Seams.
Most hoodies use basic .7 cm overlocked seams. This means that the seam can be sewn and overlocked in one operation, rather than two.
If topstitched the seams may need to be wider. You may prefer the factory to decide this themselves.
Sewing Thread.
Its not generally necessary to stipulate which type of sewing thread you require, but you may want a heavy thread for top stitching, or a bulk overlock thread. Or you may need to stipulate a particular colour, whether self coloured, or contrast.
Overlock.
Bulk overlock thread is often used for hoodies. This provides for better seam coverage, and can be decorative.
Coverstitch Seams.
Coverstitch seams are more likely to be found on sportswear than streetwear. It is used as much for decoration as it is for comfort. Stylr seams and raglan seams may be coverstitched, but set-in sleeves rarely are.
Topstitching.
If your design has any topstitching you need to state whether it is single stitch, twin stitch, or triple stitch. You need also to state what distance the topstitch is.
Bartacks.
Hoodies may require bar tacks at stress points such as pocket edges. These may be in a self colour or a contrast. These should be indicated on your sketch.
Trims And Hardware.
Your design may require various trims. These need to be sourced and provided.
Neck Tape.
Neck tape ifs often used in T shirts, sweatshirts, and hoodies. This stops the neck from stretching, and can also provide visible branding if a branded tape is used.
Embroidery And Printing.
If your garment has any embroidery, the size and position needs to be indicated both on the pattern, and in the techpack. The embroidery design requires a separate page. The factory will often provide the embroidery and design service for you.
Printing.
You will need a separate page for any printing design that you want for your hoody.
Screen printing
Knitted Rib Fabrics.
If your design requires ribbed fabric for the hem or cuffs, you need to choose an appropriate one for your design. Knitted ribs come in two types – 1*1 and 2*2.
Some ribs are sold in a finished width, to be stitched as a single layer. Others come in circular roll, to be cut to size and folded double. A good ribbed fabric will be firm with a good elasticity and recovery.
Some ribs have more elasticity than others. Some single ribs come in a finished depth, while other ribs come in a roll to be cut to length and doubled.
Zips.
If your design is for a zip-up hoodie, then your choice of zips can make a big difference to your design. Chunky plastic zips, or metal zips. Two way zip can open from top or bottom.
The Hood.
A casual street hoodie will normally have two panels, with a seam down the middle. A sports hoodie may have three panels, which provides a more tailored fit. You may need to topstitch the seams, so this would need to be illustrated in your working sketch.
Your hood may be cut singly, or double. Or it may be lined. The front opening will usually have a drawstring with a topstitched channel. The drawstring will need either buttonholes or eyelets for drawing through.
Hardware.
The hardaware on a hoodie is normally included under trimmings, although can have a separate heading. It is all the hard metal or plastic components, such as eyelets or zips.
Logo.
If you have a logo for your brand, you may want this included in your hoodie in different ways. Vector
Drawstring.
If your hoodie has a drawstring you need to source this and decide on the length. The drawstring may be finished in ready made lengths, or bought on a roll to be cut to length.
Fabric Consumption.
Having decided on the fabrics and trims for your hoodie you then need to calculate the fabric consumption. You can use your patterns to calculate this. It is best left to a professional, unless you are sure what you are doing.
Often you will need to calculate the fabric consumption based on two garments as one may not be cost effective.
Each fabric needs to be costed, including the rib.
Garment Spec.
If you have provided a reference garment for shape and size, then you wont need a garment spec for your sample. You would be advised to include one for production so that you can check that all your garments come up to spec.
Some people measure the pattern to make their garment spec, but this isnt how the professionals do it. Professionals measure the finished sample, rather than the pattern.
This is because when the final sample is finished it may well not measure exactly as the pattern. It may have shrunk a little, or stretched a little during the making process. The thickness of the fabric itself may distort the measurement.
Measuring a garment for spec is a skill in itself. You need to keep the area measured a little tight without stretching it.
Sizing.
Sizing is a very important aspect to any brand, and especially for streetwear or hoody brands. The most important thing is to get the base size correct. Once this is finalised and approved, then you need to determine the sizing and the grade rules.
In a perfect world you would have lots of sizes to cover every body type, but the more sizes you have the more complicated and expensive it becomes to manufacture.
If you have a limited budget, and can only afford a small manufacturing run, then you will need to restrict the amount of sizes you produce. Factories like to have a minimum run per size and colour in order to be profitable.
You will probably already have several colours in each style, so may want a maximum of four sizes. A standard chest difference from size to size is 2″ (5 cms).
If you want to cover a bigger size range you could choose a 3″ grade instead. Although a 4″ grade would cover an even greater range of sizes, you may find that you sell less, and get more returns.
Labels.
You will need to show which labels you want in your garments, and where you want them. Labels would include washing instruction labels, composition labels, brand logo labels.
Techpack Workshops.
We run a one-to-one tech pack workshop if you would like to learn how to make your own tech pack example templates. We dont recommend you do it yourself without a template. The workshop is available either face to face, or via Zoom.
Our Techpack Design Service.
Please check our tech pack design service, if you would rather have us provide your tech packs, or provide you with templates to use for future designs.
These would be templates designed specifically for you, rather than the free tech pack templates you find on the internet.
Leavers hoodie
One Hour Startup Consultation.
If you would like a consultation with one of our experienced fashion business experts please email for an appointment, or for more information. The cost for a one hour consultation with our junior adviser is £45. Our senior fashion business adviser is £80 for an hour.
Our junior advisers have over ten years experience in the fashion business, while our senior advisers have over fifteen years experience. Please let us know what areas you are interested in so that we can put you in touch with the most appropriate adviser – Sportswear, lingerie, swimwear, streetwear, tailoring, couture, etc.
CONTACT BILL [email protected]