Pattern Grading

Pattern Grading Services.

16). We offer both manual pattern grading and digital computer pattern grading services for UK fashion and clothing  businesses. We strongly recommend that you learn manual grading before computer grading where possible.

Freelance Pattern Grading.

There are very few  independent freelance pattern graders in the UK. Most pattern grading services are provided by just a few larger companies. Some offer just computer files, while others will provide print outs or graded sets in pattern card.

 EMAIL   [email protected]

Stack Grading Vs Single Ply Grading.

In 1975 the height of sophistication in the grading world was stack grading. This involved manually cutting a number of different pattern sizes at the same time, with the aid of a pair of long handled short blade sheers. These sheers ensured that you had plenty of leverage to cut through many layers at once.

Only the most experienced pattern graders used this method. It had the advantage of being much faster than single ply grading. The disadvantage with grading this way was that either all the sizes were right, or they were all wrong.

If you grade each size individually you would check the grade by stacking them one on top of the other after they were cut, rather than as they were cut.

Another alternative method was to Mark the base size and the biggest size on the same sheet of paper, then to strike through all the relevant points to automatically find the intervening sizes.

Then to trace through each size using a tracing wheel. After grading, each graded pattern piece would be marked  up with all the relevant information either using different coloured pens, or using a John Bull type printing set to stamp each pattern piece.

There was also a grading machine that a few clothing companies would use. Each individual pattern piece would be attached to an arm that would move vertically or horizontally. At each stage of movement part of the pattern would be marked with a pencil.

Manual Grading Vs Digital Grading.

The computer has made pattern grading more of a “white collar” job and has made it far more efficient. But the job requires the purchase of quite expensive equipment and requires extra computer skills on top of the grading skills.

There are very few people today who continue to grade manually. Those that do are likely to be either manual pattern cutters like myself who will grade just a few sizes rather than send them elsewhere.

Or they may be fabric cutters who put their hand to simple pattern cutting or grading.

A digital pattern grader generally does not have the hands on experience of a manual grader or pattern cutter. Consequently they may be more skilled as computer operators than as graders.

  Thats why it is important to supply the grader with a well worked out size spec.

An experienced Pattern Cutter is often more skilled at understanding the correct proportions a pattern should be. A computer grading service will often  insist on receiving a size spec before proceeding with the grading.

The Size Chart.

Supplying the Grader with a size chart ensures that the grader does not take easy short cuts. It also puts the designer in control of production rather than the factory.

 If the factory have been given  a garment spec that details the measurements each size should be, they have no excuses if the garments do not measure up.

If the factory supply the spec, then they can make the spec to fit the garment rather than visa versa. I often see cases where the factory have supplied their own size spec after the garments have been made.

These specs can be all over the place. And there will often be massive problems, especially with the bigger sizes.

When providing a size chart it is important that you provide a UK size chart for a UK market. A UK size chart will be different to an EU size chart, or a US size chart.

There is not too much difference between menswear grading and ladieswear grading. While a mans size chart will obviously be different to a ladies size chart, the increments may be the same.

In the UK we still often use imperial measurements, although when supplying charts for computer grading it is normal to provide metric measurements.

Pattern Grading Rules.

It is important to take some time to consider the grading rules beforehand. These are the most important part of the grading process.

Because most grading services charge according to the amount of pattern pieces rather than time or difficulty involved, it is human nature to try to cut corners.

If you were to ask a factory to grade a pattern up or down one size, they will often only adjust the side seam, rather than grade equally throughout the garment.

In determining the grading rules, even if I am just providing a size spec to the grader, I will often physically grade an outline of the smallest and largest sizes in order to check that the proportions are correct. This is especially important for childrenswear grading because of the extreme changes in size and stature.

I still offer manual grading as an extra service for my own patterns, but normally I will provide well thought out size charts for the digital graders to follow. If it is a complicated grade I will often manually grade the largest size just to test the grading.

I also try as much as possible to stick to an even grade right through, instead of different increments for each size. This means that it is far easier for the small business to check the grading.

If the smallest and biggest sizes are correct, then each size in between must also be correct. If you stack all of the pattern pieces on top of each other they should all follow the same pattern.

Grading is not an exact science – It is a compromise. This compromise works sufficiently well when only a few sizes are grade, but when there are a large number of sizes, the inaccuracy builds up and becomes obvious.

The relationship between armhole and sleeve for instance means that the shoulder is graded too much and the bicep too little.

This is because a jacket with a 40″chest is graded according  to the 40″ chest rather than the round arm measurement of 48″. Both the armhole and biceps width is increased by 1.4 cms .

But the bicep should really  have extra ease in the sleeve head to allow for the extra biceps width that is not graded.

If your manufacturing is to be within the U.K. and on a small scale then manual pattern grades on card is the norm, although sometimes Computer patterns would be preferable. For bigger factories and Offshore production Computer files are usually preferable.

 I am very experienced in grading every type of pattern for Menswear, Ladieswear and Childrenswear as well as for plus sizes.

Most grading is very straightforward, with the majority of Clothing Companies sticking to a small range of standard sizes, but when grading beyond those standard sizes, or if grading for Childrenswear or certain specialised groups then the grading is more complex.

One of the first things to decide when determining the grading rules is whether you are grading as if for separate individuals of different sizes, or as if for one person who is getting bigger as they get older.

The former gets taller as well as wider, whereas the latter remains the same height once maturity is reached. With the former they tend to get uniformly bigger in girth whereas the latter will get disproportionately bigger in some areas than others.

 In this respect, grading for Men and Women are very distinct. If a standard grade is used then any error on the grading system will increase with the increased sizes.

 When we grade vertically for the armhole depth or for the rise in trousers, we are not grading so much for height as for the additional fat that builds up in these areas as we get bigger. An extra height element would have to be added to the formula.

Ladieswear.

Grading for Ladieswear is normally fairy straightforward if there are only a few sizes to grade. Simple grading for ladieswear is something that can be learned  quickly. But outside of the normal size ranges from sizes 10 – 18, it becomes a little more difficult.

 EMAIL   [email protected]

The grading system tends to be just a compromise that is perfectly adequate when dealing with standard sizing for a small range of womens sizes. Even with a complicated style most errors in the grading system will probably not be apparent.

Problems arrive however as the amount of sizes increase, and it tends to be more problematic grading down than grading up in size. The vast majority of Ladieswear styles in the U.K. are graded in sizes 8 to 16 . Beyond these standard sizes is where the grading problems begin to escalate.

Grading is quite  imprecise whichever system is used. Mainly the imprecisions revolve around the armhole, shoulder and biceps measurements. For  plus size grading we have to try to mitigate the imprecisions becoming a problem for the larger sizes by tweaking the grading system.

Here at  The London Pattern Cutter we only do manual grading, although we can provide Digitised grades if required. All our grading is completed in card unless otherwise advised.

Menswear.

Menswear grading like all grading is a compromise. It can be very straightforward or it can be quite complex. Usually for grading just a few sizes a standard grade would be used.

If there are a lot of sizes then a more sophisticated grading method would be needed to ensure that the more extreme sizes do not become out of proportion.

 EMAIL   [email protected]

While Menswear is on the whole less design orientated, with fewer variations in style there can be far more sizes involved. Classical mens tailoring traditionally has about eight sizes and may also come in short, regular and long making twenty four sizes in total.

Styles may be slim fit, classic fit, athletic fit or corpulent fit. As men tend to get disproportionately big in the waist girth, the waist will need to be graded more than the chest or hip. The extra grade on the waist would tend to go on the front grade rather than being equally dispersed.

Mens off the peg jackets will generally have a deeper armhole than a Bespoke jacket as it has to fit a wider variety of sizes. This is especially true of jackets bought online as companies cant afford to have too many returns due to badly fitting garments.

In the UK, mens sizes are normally graded in 2″ increments – 38″. 40″. 42″ etc. But sometimes Small. Medium. Large are used. This means that sizing can be spread over a larger size range with fewer garments. Each size can cover 3″ or 4″ increments.

Plus Size Patterns.

Plus size pattern cutting requires an extensive knowledge of sizing and human anatomy. Patterns must be made to flatter the figure. There are  an immense amount of styles available for the smaller sizes, but very few available for the larger man or woman.

often the styles that are available for the plus sizes are not very flattering and are badly cut by Pattern Cutters who are not familiar with how to cut the bigger sizes properly.

EMAIL –  [email protected]

I offer a  Plus size pattern cutting service  for all types of garments in both Mens and Ladies wear from Tailoring, Outerwear and Dresses to Shirts, T Shirts and Polo Shirts etc.

Having had a vast amount of experience in cutting patterns for all shapes and sizes over the years. I can also offer stock patterns for those on a budget who have not got the experience to create a pattern from scratch, but can amend an otherwise factory ready pattern.

I have forty years of experience as a Pattern Cutter and have been Freelance since 1984.Please feel free to contact me for further information.

Grading Courses.

If you would like to learn how to grade your own designs, please, check our one to one  pattern grading classes.

Pattern Grading Frequently Asked Queries.

(085). These are some of the queries we are asked about pattern grading.

What Is Pattern Grading ? 

Pattern grading is the process of creating different sizes from the base  pattern, once the base pattern has been perfected. The  pattern is graded proportionately up and down in sizes.

It is important that the graded patterns maintain the fit, shape, balance and look of the original. The graded pattern pieces also need to fit exactly together in the same way as the original size.

Please check our pattern grading page for more information.

Is Manual Or Computer Grading Better ?

Grading is done either manually, or by computer. Generally if you are grading a lot of sizes, then computer grading would be cheaper and more reliable. If you are just grading a few sizes, then manual grading may be the better option.

Manual grading is only really viable if you just need a simple grade with a few sizes. It is  very time consuming and expensive in comparison to computer grading. Computer grading requires a certain amount of time plotting the pattern and setting up the grading rules. You may be charged a setup fee on top of the grading price.

Computer files can be stored, and transported round the world easily. The factory would still need physical patterns in order to cut the garments out. If your factory does not have access to the equipment necessary, then you would still need to supply physical patterns to them.

Digital pattern grades can be easily copied.

How Many Sizes Do I Need ? 

The amount of sizes you need depends on a number of factors, including what your intended market is, the age group, their lifestyle, garment function, and your budget. Some designs only really suit a given size range.

Most established fashion brands would have 5-6 sizes. Functional garments may require more sizes. Their designs tend to have more longevity, so warrant a bigger range of sizes.

How Much Does Grading Cost ?

Grading costs vary according to a number of factors, including the number of pattern pieces, how complicated the pattern is, and the size of the pieces.

Different graders use different methods for pricing. Some charge per hour, some  charge a per piece rate. Others use a flat rate per garment type. Some will charge a setup fee on top.

As a rough guide a pattern with up to eight pieces may cost around £30 – £40 per size. A lined, tailored jacket may cost around £60 – £70 per size.

One thing to be aware of with some types of complicated patterns, such as tailored jackets or technical garments is that there may be a lot of small pattern pieces for pockets, or internals like fusing. If you dont know about garment construction you may not be aware of these.

What Are Grading Rules ?

A grade rule is the specified amount that a pattern is increased or decreased by at a given point, in order to make the next size. This grade rule may apply to every size within the range, a range of sizes, or just one size.

Can I Trust A Factory To Grade My Patterns ?

Generally it is unwise to trust a factory to grade your patterns correctly, without providing them with a size chart. Factories will not necessarily have sufficiently experienced graders to ensure that they grade your sizes accurately. Often they will just increase a chest size by extending the side seam.

Sometimes this can prove disastrous, especially where a large size range is concerned, or childrenswear, or anything that is not standard. Most factories will not use professional graders

Foreign factories are not always familiar with UK sizes. We have seen many grading problems due to this, especially in childrenswear.

Can I Do It Myself ? 

It depends  on how complicated the pattern is, and how many sizes you want to grade.  If you are grading a simple pattern just a few sizes, then it is possible to do it yourself with a little knowledge quite easily.

If you want to grade a tailored jacket up and down one size, this would be possible with a little knowledge, and if you were not concerned about precision.

Grading is not very difficult once you understand the basic principals, although complicated styles may require more learning.

If you have your designs are made in three sizes, such as small, medium and large, then it is possible to do the grading yourself with some basic learning and a little care. One of the important things with grading is checking.

Do You Offer Grading Tuition ? 

Yes, we offer some short pattern grading courses from our studios in Greenwich. If you would like some more information, please feel free to call or email.

All our pattern grading courses are one to one classes, although we can accept two students per class.

Do You Grade Childrens Patterns ? 

Yes. We have extensive knowledge of childrens grading and grade rules.

 EMAIL   [email protected]