Mans Tailored Jacket Draft

The Trouble With Drafting Systems.

What is the best jacket drafting system for beginners ? How do professional tailors and pattern cutters draft jacket patterns from scratch ? Is there a better alternative to drafting ?

There are many different drafting systems for mens tailored jackets, used by bespoke tailors who need to have the best reliable formula to create jacket patterns for any size, shape, and body type.

Rather than draft from scratch, many tailors will use an extensive library of pre existing pattern blocks, based on their house style, and their personal preference.

Each customer’s pattern will be created using the generic block that best  fits their shape, size and style. This is then tweaked to exactly fit the clients body shape.

Some tailors will still draft each pattern from scratch, using their own personalised formula based on an existing system.

Professional Tailors And Pattern Cutters.

Commercial pattern cutters generally create patterns for just one size and shape, based on the companies’ customer profile. They too  will  use a library of pre existing patterns for each new style.

If no suitable pattern exists they will either create a new shape from a general block, or from the best reference garment they can find.

They don’t necessarily copy the reference garment. Sometimes they may just use the  measurements to transfer onto their basic block pattern.

A professional pattern maker will very rarely draft a jacket pattern from scratch, although some may model a pattern on the stand. Very few pattern cutters will even be able to draft a pattern without referring to instructions in a book.

Sometimes a client may want a style based on a particular reference garment, so they will list all the important measurements, and send these, along with a “ tech pack”  to the pattern cutter.

This happens frequently today when so much of the sampling and production takes place abroad, while the designers are in the UK.

A professional tailor takes years to learn how to use a drafting system, even though he is using them in his  job constantly, day in, and day out.

He will find the best system available, either through trial and error, or recommendation. Once he has learned the rules of the system, he will then throw those rules out of The window and do it his own way.

I tend to feel that bespoke tailoring is like the magic circle. It is cloaked in secrecy, and mathematical formulae,  making it very difficult for the amateur to understand what the best system is, and what even is going on.

Bespoke Tailoring involves a lot of manipulation in the making process that distorts the fabric through shrinking and stretching, and the use of various internal construction materials.

Amateur Tailors And Dressmakers.

Drafting systems are not practical for enthusiastic amateur  tailors or home dressmakers, who just want to create tailored garments for themselves. They would be better advised to buy a good mannequin for their own size, and use other methods for creating the pattern drafts.

Even when making jackets for clients of varying  sizes it is better to use a reference garment for better and quicker results.

If it takes years for a professional to fully understand how to use a drafting system, imagine how long it would take an amateur, with no experienced people around him to learn from.

Drafting systems  are very complicated mathematical formulae, and not very intuitive. Although an experienced tailor can adapt them for particular body types, an amateur does not have the experience or skill to do this.

The systems are often badly explained, and full of errors. Add to this your own drafting mistakes, and it can become an infuriating  nightmare, that you only fully discover when you make the jacket up and try it on for the first time.

Understanding Pattern Shapes.

Professional pattern makers tend to specialise in particular areas of pattern cutting. That may be ladies wear, menswear, Childrenswear, sportswear, swimwear, streetwear, or tailoring for instance.

Both professional pattern makers and tailors become very familiar with the shapes they are used to working with. They develop an instinct for what looks right and what doesn’t. It takes years of experience to develop this familiarity.

A jacket pattern cutter will be familiar with all styles of jacket in one size (usually size 40″ for men and size 12 for ladies).

Most pattern cutters will create a flat pattern from a block that they will then use to create a new style, either “on the flat” or on the stand. Or often a mix of both.

What tailors do by formulae, pattern cutters do by modelling on the stand. Tailors have a list of terms for various procedures that pattern cutters just do automatically. Straightening or crookening for instance , is an adjustment that a pattern cutter would automatically do when draping a pattern.

Some pattern makers will prefer to create their patterns fully by draping calico on the stand, then transferring the calico on to paper.

Professional Tailors.

An experienced tailor will be experienced with all styles, over a wide range of sizes and body types. As with pattern cutters, they will often use generic blocks close to the clients size and shape, to develop in to a new custom made style.

Some tailors will use a draft system that they have adapted to suit them, and to fit in with the house style. They will adjust each draft to reflect the customers body type.

Others will use a “Rock of eye” method to create their patterns either on paper, or directly on to fabric. These are both very advanced methods that requires a lot of skill and experience.

A tailor can rely on far more labour intensive methods than a pattern cutter. The sleeve cap usually has 4-6 cms ease. The back shoulder has 1-2 cms ease.

Tailors have a completely different language than pattern cutters, and give names to things that pattern cutters just do in the modelling process – Crookening for example.

Block Patterns.

Both  pattern cutters and tailors will use block patterns as a base for new patterns, to ensure that all styles have the same basic fit. Block patterns are just a generic shape used as a basis for new styles.

Drafting Systems.

There are a number of popular jacket drafting systems around – Some modern. Some old. It is suggested that the old systems are not practical for use today as we are taller and bigger than we used to be.

It is to be expected that there would be different systems allowing for different fashionable fits, but the thing that puzzles me is  you would assume that a drafting system would be timeless and adapt to the different sizes.

There are proportionate systems, using a scale, and direct measurement systems. Some include 1/4″ seams, while others don’t.

Some draft systems use correct grain line so you can draft directly on to cloth, which is easier for beginner.  Others expect you to adjust the grain lines after drafting.

There are many types of jacket draft systems, with many variations in seams and panels.  Some drafts are better than others.  Some have seam allowances included in the draft, while others do not.

If you are creating your jacket draft for bespoke tailoring you will a different formula to one for commercial high street brand.

Well known Pattern systems include :

F.P. Scholte

J.B. Adams

A. Whife

F.R. Morris

John J. Mitchell – The Modern Mitchell System

Rundschau

Muller and sons

Regals American

Copying A Favourite Jacket.

By far the best way to create a perfect custom  shape is to copy an existing jacket. That way you know exactly how the jacket fits, and exactly what you need to do in order to perfect the fit to your preference.

Even experienced pattern cutters will use this method rather than create a new pattern from scratch, where a lot of trial and error would be required to perfect the shape.

I wouldn’t suggest using a custom made bespoke jacket for this purpose, as it would be too idiosyncratic and distorted through the tailoring process. better to  use a favourite jacket from a reputable tailoring brand.

Using Grids For Stripes And Checks.

For best results, use a jacket that has a stripe, or better still, a check. This way you can create a grid to plot your pattern. Take your check dimensions  from multiple checks and divide by the number of checks to determine one check.

A large area of fabric on the back which has not been stretched or shrunk. Measure over as many checks as you can, then divide by the number of checks to create your grid.

If you create your grid over a large sheet of paper you can draft multiple pattern pieces, or even draft one pattern piece over another, then trace off each pattern piece.

If you don’t have a check fabric it is more difficult, but you can still use this method if you know where the straight of grain is, and you have some understanding of  how the garment shape should be.

Be aware that most commercial jacket shapes tend to have low armholes and low waist length positions, so you may want to allow for this when finalise your pattern.

Mans SB Tailored Jacket Draft

Body Types.

There are many different body types to be accounted for :- Normal; Slim; Corpulent; Stout; Full Chested; Erect; Sloping Shoulders; Hump back.

What Is A Tailor ?

Tailoring is divided in to three roles – measuring the client, making the pattern, and sewing the suit. Taking the measurements also requires noting the type of body shape, especially anything that deviates from the norm. Generally, it is best for the pattern maker to also take the measurements, as this way he can see for himself

What Is Straightening And Crookening ? 

Straightening and Crookening (or crooking) are terms that I have only recently come across, despite performing these techniques regularly, while draping a jacket on the stand.

On a tailored jacket good balance is vital – Both  vertical balance and  horizontal balance. The most important single point for determining the balance in either direction is the  side neck point. This point is usually at a  fixed on the back, but  the front can be moved either up or down for vertical balance. Or it can be moved forward or back for horizontal balance. Or both.

Balance.

If a jacket is not balanced,  either vertically or horizontally, it will look odd, and feel uncomfortable  in wear. When I try on an off the peg jacket, I often feel as if I need to pull the back up and push the front forward.

This is caused by incorrect vertical balance. While most top brands provide a good  basic fit for their chosen market, smaller designer brands  will often suffer from balance  problems, because they don’t always use experienced jacket pattern cutters.

No matter how nice the design, if the jacket does not feel right it will be a massive disincentive to buy.

Getting the fit and balance right is  only half of the job of cutting a tailored mans jacket though.

Jacket Measurements.

• CB Length.
• Nape To Armhole Depth.
• Nape To Waist Length.
• XB Width.
• XF Width.
• X Shoulder Width.
• Chest Circumference.
• Waist Circumference.
• Hip Circumference.
• Overarm Length.
• Bicep Circumference.
• Elbow Circumference.
• Cuff Circumference.

Pattern Cutting Classes.

For anyone interested in learning how to cut and sew tailored jackets, we run one to one workshops and classes from our studios in Greenwich. We can also provide live online classes.

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