How To Sew A Perfect Corner

How Do You Sew A Perfect Corner ? 

Being able to sew a perfect sharp corner is not so difficult. It just  takes precision, some knowledge, and  a little  practise.

Home sewers often find that their corners turn out  lumpy, or dog-eared. This is generally due to excess uncontrolled fabric in the corner.

Controlling the fabric is essential to sew the perfect corner. There are several  techniques experts use to achieve a perfect corner.  You need to try the different methods to see which works best for you.

 

Seam Allowance.

The first thing is to start with the correct seam allowance. Different fabrics may dictate different allowances. A thick or loose woven fabric will require a wider seam allowance than a light or tightly woven one.

Ideally your seam allowance will match your foot width, or your sewing machine will have markings to guide you. A useful tip is to stick a piece of masking tape to your sewing foot the width of your seam if you dont have a guide.

Most home dressmakers, and some tailors  use 1.5 cm seams, which they may trim after sewing. Most professional pattern cutters will use either 1cm or .75 cm seams.

 

Marking Your Corner Pivot Point.

To sew your corner you can mark your seam allowances or the corner point on your fabric, but this should be unnecessary. It is better to get used to working without too many guides.

You can always  use a pin to mark the corner pivot point though. Just make sure that the pin is angled away from the seam line.

 

Sewing Machine Setup.

In order to sew a perfect corner your sewing machine needs to be set up correctly, so that you are not left with skipped or looped stitches, grinning seams, and an undefined point.

You need to use the correct thread for the fabric, with the correct needle type and size. Your needle must be changed regularly, as they can go blunt with excessive use.

Your thread tension needs to be well balanced, so that the upper thread and lower bobbin thread interlock in the middle of the fabric, with no loops or puckers.

 

Stitch Length.

Your stitch length needs to match your fabric. A standard stitch length is fine, but some expert sewers suggest making the stitches smaller as you near the corner. This makes it stronger, with a more defined point.

 

Emile`s Method To Sew A Perfect Corner.

 

The Corner Angle.

The method you use for sewing a corner depends on what type of corner you are sewing. Your corner may be square like a cuff,  or angled like a collar. It can be an inward corner, such as an inset, or an outward corner such as a cuff.

Sewing a 90° right angle corner such as for a cuff is different to sewing an angled corner such as in a pointed collar. the right angled corner is the simplest corner to sew, and can be sewn in several different ways.

A  right angle  can be an inward corner or an outward corner. A cuff is an outward corner.

 

Blunting.

A technique called blunting is often used in sewing corners. Rather than pivoting your fabric 90° at the corner, you take one or two diagonal stitches, and then continue along the right angled seam.  This gives the fabric a little more space to sit in.

The amount of diagonal stitches depends on the fabric thickness, and stitch length. A heavy or loosely woven fabric will probably have two diagonal stitches. A thinner fabric would have one.

 

Trimming The Corner. 

Sewers will often choose to trim fabric from corner seams in order to reduce bulk, but an alternative method is to leave the fabric to provide some firm support for the corner.

If you are making a right angle corner you do not have to trim your corners as long as you control the fabric as you turn it out. Just fold one pair of seams to one side, and hold in place. Then fold the other pair of seams to the same side. Pull through to the right side, making sure that the fabric is controlled.

 

Pressing Seams.

Under pressing at every sewing stage is essential if you want to produce nicely finished garments. This is one of the main differences between an average seamstress and a good or professional seamstress.

Seams need to be pressed open, or to one side, using a wooded tailors board for best results. For best results you should use an iron, but you can  just finger press.

 

Trimming Your Corners.

Most corner sewing methods require trimming fabric away at an angle to reduce bulk. If your corner is a ninety degree right angle, then you can just fold your seams to one side and turn through while controlling the fabric with your thumb. You would still be advised to press open your seams before turning through.

 

Turning Your Points.

You need to control your fabric while turning your points. The thumb is used to keep the corner fabric in place while turning. A point turner, or pin can be used to pull the corner into shape.

 

Collars And Cuffs.

These methods of sewing corners are most often used for sewing collars and cuffs. Collars tend to be pointed, while cuffs are often right angled corners.

 

Right Angles Or Angled Points.

Although the sewing techniques are similar for collars and cuffs, collars are usually pointed, while cuffs are usually right angled. Slightly different methods may be used depending on the shape.

 

Sewing Tips.

It is important to make sure that points must be the same on both sides.

 

Method 1.

The first and simplest  way to make the perfect corner using a 1cm seam is to mark your corner points with a pin at each corner. Sew to each point and pivot. Press open your seams with a tailors board if you have one, but when you turn through  you will need to fold both seams together to one side. one edge will overlap the other.

 

Method 2. 

For the second method we will sew to the point and back tack. You will then sew the other seam to the point and back tack. Do not sew beyond the point.

 

 

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