T Shirt Draft
T Shirt Draft Using Our Mans Body Block.
Here I want to explain exactly what is required to draft the perfect T shirt pattern, before providing the actual draft.
T shirt patterns are just about the easiest patterns to make. If you are cutting a voluminous T shirt, then there is little skill required. Anyone can do it without any guidance. Something more fitted and you will need guidance. It is because they are such a simple shape that T shirts need to be perfectly cut.
The Perfect Fit.
The fit needs to be perfect, as does every part of the pattern shape. The fit needs to be perfect in order to create a nice silhouette for the body shape. This will be determined by the chest circumference mainly, but also the waist and hip circumferences, and their relationship with each other.
The Shoulder Angle.
Needs to be perfect so that there is no pulling or dragging on the shoulder and armhole. If the angle is too shallow, there will be excess fabric, the neck will pull, and the armhole will be too high. If the angle is too steep, then the shoulder will be tight, and the neck will sit away from the body.
The shoulder to shoulder ( X shoulder) width needs to be perfect so that the shoulder point sits just on the shoulder, or wherever is desired.
The across back ( XB ) is normally a couple of cms wider than the across front, to allow for the forward movement of the arms, and stretching the back.
The across front needs to be a comfortable measurement but does not need much extra for movement.
If the armhole depth is too high, it digs into the arm and feels uncomfortable. If too low, it restricts arm lift. The armhole depth needs to reflect the general fit.
The sleeve needs to be perfect so that it complements the armhole shape and fits the bicep. If the front and back armhole, then the sleeves will also be cut the same back and front. There is no ease generally needed for a T shirt sleeve.
The length needs to be perfect, but this is often a question of the aesthetics of a specific style, rather than a given measurement. We know when a T shirt is either too long or too short when we see it.
The neck is the most visible part of a T shirt. It needs to fit comfortably over the head, but also needs to look nice and neat, both on the hanger and on the body. Usually the neck band is made from a stretchy rib, and machined with a stretchy thread construction. The inside edge of the collar band needs to sit flat against the body. This means that it will need to be considerably smaller than the neck seam that it is sewn to.
The Pattern Shape.
T shirts are normally cut so that they lay flat when made, and hang nicely on a hanger. “Hanger appeal” is an important factor in being able to sell any garment. To lay flat the front and back will be the same width, with the same side seam shape, and the same shoulder . Sometimes the front and back armholes will also be the same, but obviously the front and back neck will be different.
The sleeve will often be the same front and back. For a more forward sleeve pitch, the side seams can be positioned 1cm toward the front. But some may object to the fact that the side seams become morevisible.
Different T Shirt Fits.
There are many different T shirt fits possible, depending on body type, and the silhouette you want to achieve. There is a body hugging fit, athletic fit, slim fit, classic fit, casual fit, and loose fit.
My suggestion would be to find an existing T that is a perfect fit for your market. Preferably made by a reputable brand for the specific market and body type that you are aiming for. Make note of any alterations you would like to make. Then use our body shape block to transfer all those measurements onto the block. I will guide you with our T shirt draft.
My T Shirt Draft.
I use a mix of flat pattern cutting, and modelling on the stand. So my T shirt draft uses my basic body block. Unusually, I make the front and back neck widths, and shoulder angles exactly the same. This is because I want the front and back to lay flat. Because T shirt fabric is generally stretchy, it should not cause any pulling.
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