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In many ways mens tailored trouser patterns are the most difficult type of patterns to cut. They appear to have an extra dimension and to the untrained eye do not seem to resemble the shape of the human body. Many years of experience are needed in order to be able to confidently cut a mans trouser.

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While every line on a trouser pattern is important for a good fit, the centre back line is the MOST important. The centre back angle controls the fit. If the centre back angle is wrong then the whole fit will be affected. While the centre front is less important, it still affects the fit of the garment. Sometimes the centre front is drafted at right angles to the waist line, while at other times it is angled inwards at the waist. This can be a little puzzling as the body normally extends out at the front, even on athletic or slim men. And on a stout figure this will be far more exaggerated. Personally I tend to angle the centre front inwards in order to allow for the fact that the leg moves forwards while walking, so requires a certain amount of ease for stride length. The same applies for either darts or pleats in the front.

While Tailors normally do not rely on mannequins to perfect the fit on a trouser pattern, due to the fact that they have to deal with a very wide range of shapes and sizes, Pattern Cutters do normally require one. However, with trouser patterns, very few Pattern Cutters have this luxury as clothing companies do not normally want to spend money on them. And fitting pants on a stand can be difficult due to the fact that the waist is fixed and rigid, so it can be impossible to close the waist, so making it extremely hard to fit. For the same reason trouser patterns are nearly always begun from an existing pattern that would originally have needed to be drafted from a set formula in the same way that a Tailor would do. I am not normally a fan of drafting patterns as I prefer the more practical method of draping, or modeling  on the stand. Even with trousers I feel that modeling on the stand can provide very valuable experience for a Pattern Cutter.

The fit of trousers from clothing retailers is  variable and can be extremely poor, especially in non specialist brands. Even many very experienced Pattern Cutters can have a very limited understanding of how to cut trousers. The larger companies tend to be better than the smaller ones because they can afford to employ better Pattern Cutters and Technicians as well as to make more samples.

When we buy trousers from a retailer they are normally marked by waist size, although really it is the hip size that determines the fit more accurately. A bigger men especially will tend to buy according to his hip size and just let the waist find its own level…

“If it aint broke – Bend it”


PHONE – 07905-965-305 ( BILL )


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