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Childrenswear Grading

Childrenswear grading is far more complicated, although necessarily less precise  than either grading Menswear or grading Ladieswear.  Any grading system used will be a compromise as it is far too complicated to accurately grade a large range of childrens sizes and although it is possible to grade one pattern through the sizes from three years to sixteen years, it is not generally recommended .

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EMAIL –  thelondonpatterncutter@gmail.com

there are three main sizing categories in Childrenswear : Babywear (0-2years) – Nappy allowance has to be considered for this category, but boys and girls can be graded the same ; Childrenswear( 2-12 years) – Again, boys and girls can be graded the same as there is no significant difference in growing patterns. ; and Teenwear ( 12-16 years) – Girls and boys have to be graded differently as there is a significant divergence in growing patterns that needs to be accounted for in the grading system . Normally each size category would have a separate block to grade from.

The reason  I would normally grade equally through all the sizes  is because if the smallest and largest sizes are correct, the sizes in between should also be more or less correct. Children are all sorts of sizes – They do not conform to the standard measurements in size charts, although they will tend to fit within certain measurements. We therefore aim each size to fit as many children as possible, with room for growth allowance.

Another good reason for a small business to grade evenly between sizes is that it is far easier to check that the patterns are accurate. If you grade evenly, it is easy to check the grade by making a sample in the smallest and the biggest sizes. All sizes for each pattern piece can then be stacked up one on top of the other for checking –  Any discrepancy would be easily spotted and rectified. If the patterns are graded to an uneven grade rule, you either have a sample made in each size, or you take a risk and assume that each size is correct. Obviously making a sample in each size is not a cheap option. But neither is having the sizes wrong.

As a manual grader, I will sometimes take the view that it would be more ecomomical to have your patterns graded digitally. This is because there are a lot of sizes in childrenswear, making it very time consuming if done manually. In this case I would  figure out the best way to grade the style , if necessary, by making the largest and smallest patterns first. Then I would supply the grading rules to the digitisers. The digitisers themselves, if they understand childrenswear grading at all, will be inclined to simplify the process to suit themselves. They will normally request that you supply a grading chart anyway.

PHONE 07905-965-305

EMAIL –  thelondonpatterncutter@gmail.com

Freelance Pattern Cutters For London, Kent and U.K.