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Mens Shirt Patterns

I have been making top quality mens shirt patterns and samples  as well as made to measure bespoke shirts for individual clients for forty years now. I can also offer small production runs.

PHONE – 07905-965-305 ( BILL )


While a plain casual shirt is relatively straight forward, a formal shirt is far more complicated and, like most Menswear, it requires  a very precise pattern and a good specialist factory to make it. Although these specialist factories are  not abundant in the U.K. they can be found, but special care must be taken to ensure the production is of a high quality. It is easier to find overseas production for formal shirts, but they would normally require higher quantities and extra special care would need to be taken to make sure of the quality of production.

Mans shirt pattern body
Mans shirt pattern body

I have worked for a number of medium sized formal shirt manufacturers who use offshore factories. For them it makes total sense, because it is far cheaper than using U.K. production. If they find a good factory, then this is a great alternative. But DONT use them to make patterns. They do not usually understand patterns or aesthetics. And they do not usually use professional pattern cutters and graders. I would also suggest having your own sample made before approaching a factory.

Mans shirt pattern sleeve
Mans shirt sleeve pattern

Many shirt companies will get the factory to provide the patterns and grading from a measurement spec. I do not have a problem with the factory providing the grading as long as you give them a carefully thought out size spec to follow.  If you give them a set of measurements to follow for the initial pattern however, the garments may well turn out exactly to spec, but the shaping may all be in the wrong  place.  For example,If you ask them to make three different  fits – slim, tailored and regular – and you supply three different armhole measurements, they will often just add the extra allowance at the shoulder rather than the armhole depth or width.  This means that the shoulder area is very baggy and mis-shapen, while the armhole is too high. All the measurements are to spec. But the shape is in the wrong place.

It is very important that anyone who wants a professional looking shirt has the patterns made by  proper pattern cutters who understand shirts and understand fit and style. I would suggest employing an experienced shirt pattern cutter to make the base pattern, along with a toile or sample. Once you are happy with the shape, then get the factory to make their own sample. When you are happy with that, then supply them with a good size spec. using their sample as the starting point. It has to be their sample because the way they make it may affect the measurements.

Mans shirt collar pattern
Mans shirt collar pattern with fusing pieces

When you buy a shirt from a big brand usually you are aware of the type of fit and styling that you are getting. A Charles Tyrwhitt shirt will give you one type of style with several types of it fit. An M&S shirt will be another type of style and a Zara shirt another. All these shirts will always look good in their own way, because a lot of work  and hours have been put in by professional people to ensure that it is right. When you buy a designer shirt this is not always the case, because many designers do not employ good specialist pattern cutters. Instead they rely on their reputation and the design. A well known designer can get away with this, but an emerging designer cannot do so easily.

A  lot of time goes into making a mans shirt pattern as there are many different  pieces that need to be made very precisely in order to achieve a top quality look. The  collar particularly  needs to be made with the correct fusing quality and shape, otherwise the collar will not look crisp and will not fold correctly. A good collar is absolutely vital to a mans shirt. If it is not correct

Although it is possible to make  mens  casual shirts with  standard  overlocked seams as womens shirts are normally made, this tends to look cheap on a mans shirt. Generally  mens shirts need a traditional menswear construction, using flat felled seams. As most standard factories do not have the machinery for this construction it is normally necessary to have shirts made in a shirt factory. an acceptable alternative for a casual or designer shirt would be to use French seams instead of flat felled seams. Although this is more labour intensive, the appearance is acceptable for a designer garment.

All the  shirt patterns I provide are complete patterns  ready for the factory with all necessary fusing pieces, instructions, markings and notches. The Classic shirt patterns are made with traditional  flat felled seams as well as  collar stay pieces for dress shirts. If you require more information along with prices, please feel free to contact me. Basic styles include :

  • Dress Shirt – Classic fit – Centre back pleats.
  • Dress Shirt – Classic fit – Centre back pleats – French cuffs.
  • Dress Shirt – Classic fit – Side back pleats.
  • Dress Shirt – Slim fit – No back pleats.
  • Dress Shirt – Super slim fit – No back pleats.
  • Sports Shirt – Standard fit – Centre back pleats.
  • Sports Shirt – Standard fit – Side back pleats.
  • Sports Shirt – Slim fit – No back pleats.
  • Sports Shirt – Super slim fit – No back pleats.

PHONE   07905-965-305 ( BILL )


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